Turin / Piazza San Carlo & the historic cafés
Cafés · Squares
Piazza San Carlo & the historic cafés
Turin's formal drawing room, and the birthplace of the bicerin, in a square built to be looked at from a table.
- Price
- Free to visit; café prices vary considerably
- Hours
- Square always open; cafés keep their own hours
- Avg. visit
- 45 minutes to an hour with a coffee stop
- Book ahead
- No
Piazza San Carlo was laid out in the 17th century as a showcase for the newly ascendant Savoy capital, arcaded on both long sides and closed at one end by the twin Baroque facades of Santa Cristina and San Carlo Borromeo — near-identical churches that give the square its distinctive symmetrical framing. An equestrian statue of Duke Emanuele Filiberto dominates the centre of the piazza.
The surrounding arcades have hosted some of Italy's most historic cafés since the 18th and 19th centuries, several retaining their original gilt mirrors, marble tables and formal service. It was in cafés like these that the bicerin — a layered drink of espresso, drinking chocolate and cream served in a small glass — is said to have been invented, a Turin specialty that predates, and arguably inspired, the modern cappuccino.
Inside
What to see
- The twin Baroque churches of Santa Cristina and San Carlo Borromeo at the square's southern end
- The equestrian statue of Emanuele Filiberto at the piazza's centre
- The arcaded perimeter, lined with some of Turin's oldest surviving cafés
- The bicerin itself, best tried at one of the historic cafés rather than a modern imitation elsewhere
Practical
Good to know
- Coffee costs considerably more sitting at a table than standing at the bar — in these particular rooms, sitting down is the point, so budget accordingly.
- Order a bicerin and do not stir it — the layered effect of espresso, chocolate and cream is part of the traditional presentation.
- The square is at its most atmospheric in the early evening, when the arcade lighting and café windows are at their best.
Timing
When it's busiest
- Morning
- Quiet
- Midday
- Moderate
- Afternoon
- Busy
- Evening
- Moderate
Nearby
Combine your visit
5-minute walk
Museo Egizio
Combine a coffee stop with one of the world's finest Egyptology collections.
Visit →
10-minute walk
Palazzo Reale & the Musei Reali
Continue to the Savoy royal palace and its museums.
Visit →
10-minute walk
Mole Antonelliana & Museo Nazionale del Cinema
Head to the city's iconic spire and cinema museum.
Visit →
FAQ
Common questions
What is a bicerin?
A traditional Turin drink layering espresso, drinking chocolate and cream in a small glass, said to have originated in the city's historic cafés and traditionally served unstirred.
Why is coffee so much more expensive sitting down?
Table service in Italy's historic cafés is priced separately from bar service, and in grand rooms like these the difference can be substantial — it reflects the experience as much as the drink.
Is the square free to visit?
Yes, entirely — only the cafés and any purchases inside them cost money.
What's the best time to visit?
Early evening tends to be the most atmospheric, when the arcade lighting and café windows are at their best, though any time of day works for a coffee.