The Riviera by train

The railway line hugging Liguria's coast in both directions from Genoa gives remarkably easy access to some of Italy's most celebrated coastal scenery without a car. East of the city, the line serves Camogli, a working fishing town considerably less crowded than its more famous neighbours; the abbey of San Fruttuoso, reachable only by boat or a footpath through the hills, tucked into its own isolated cove; the famously exclusive harbour town of Portofino; and, roughly two hours out, the five villages of the Cinque Terre, strung along a dramatic stretch of terraced coastline.

West of Genoa, the line serves a different, less internationally famous stretch of coast — Noli, a small medieval town with its own distinct character, and Finale Ligure, known for its beaches and as a base for climbing in the limestone cliffs above the town. Regional trains along both directions are cheap, frequent and require no advance booking, making genuinely spontaneous day trips a realistic option.